Underwater Wave Surf Photography Post Processing

Raw Transcript

we got another underwater scene here this was taken with our talking at 10 to 17 milf ish I at 10 minutes wider setting we’ve got shutter speed one month on the second because there’s this action in this shot so if I go back to this one briefly this was 640 eighth of a second so it was a little bit slower than I’d normally suggest for for an action style shop thinks the same for this one yeah same for that one this one would be back out to one one-thousandth because these are just much slower activities than waves and surfing so but in this case obviously this whole wave is moving quickly this is my friend Ed and he’s just punched out through the back of this wave so there’s stuff going on that I want to freeze so I’ve set it a bit faster let’s go into either that up module I don’t want to do anything with the cropping on this one I think it’s just quite nice as it is it’s straight out of the camera it’s got a nice you’ve got this curve coming up fact it might be a candidate for mirroring again I might have a look at that later you’ve got something going on on this bird line and we’ll try and bring out that a bit more I think because it’s something what your eye does it normally goes towards a human figure but this doesn’t necessarily look like a human it could be anything when you first look at it quite like that because you’re out you eventually snow test it at a person struggling to get through this wave and as well as all this stuff of stuff so let’s not touch there that one white balance so what Otto C doesn’t do a great job underwater usually as I said so it’s good a good ass shot it’s not too bad it’s not too deep what I want to try first though is I want to reuse our settings from our granddaughter s GP shop so I hope you can see by now that if if I’m doing a normal edit session I wouldn’t have completely different photo when I have a flash photo an underwater photo adorned photo an overcast relator all in the same row I wouldn’t do them one after the other I’d have a couple of hundred of each of those type of photos in a row so that’s where this kind of presets so if I go on this preset for instance I don’t think that’s a bad starting point although I do think it’s it might be quite like it this has turned really kind of almost like a ready orange clay color which is quite cool yeah I like that so that’s that saved me time already then that’s got me and put it into a pretty good place let’s experiment with a bit more clarity maybe because I want to try I want to try and make it a bit more obvious that this is a person here so vibrance I don’t mind it I quite like it on this when you get these ripples in there and the surface of the water from the underneath then I think a bit more kind of vibrance kind of looks kind of cool that’s quite cool I like that times you just struck you kind of hit on something that’s it’s pretty good straight away yeah it’s the same I think leave out the same as it in that preset well I can’t see any real to fix I could remove this bit of seaweed but I could remove it but I don’t want to there’s nothing I want to change drastically about this shot and so what I could show you is profile Corrections so here this is a Tokina 1070 mm fisheye so what profile correction is doing Lightroom is it tries to remove any Distortion now obviously where the fisheye it’s a really distorted lens to begin with and and as I kind of explained in the in the lenses part of the course when you’re underwater there are any straight lines there aren’t anything there’s nothing that you’re I think should be straight anyway so actually I think it really lends itself to this style of shop I’m not going to use any sort of lens Corrections that’s no worries I don’t need to worry about chromatic aberration because I can’t see any in this image there’s not really too many areas of sharp contrast between two colours there’s a bit here but this lens I think is pretty good in this regard you’ll notice that some lenses you’ll have you might need to do this chromatic aberration fix quite a lot and you can even save that as a preset then apply it as you import the files for instance if you need to saved a bit of time so I think that’s what I want to do – this one I’m happy with that I’m gonna and I’m not going to save this one as a preset because we’ve already got quite quite a similar one and I don’t want to clutter it up too much so there you go that was a an example of of how to get quickly to a result that you’re happy with using a preset from a previous one


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